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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I am still thinking key switch, because you said it would start if you jumped the relay, I did two different tractors in the last two years because of bad key ignition switches. All kinds of electrical problems were solved.
I haven't tried jumping the starter straight off the battery, I don't see a way to get to the starter terminals without tearing the tractor down far enough to just replace the starter. I tested the purple wire leading to the relay, and then purple wire going from the relay to the starter solenoid itself. Both wires had 0VDC while sitting, and 12.4V DC when I turned the key to the "Start position". I tested both of these wires several times in a row, and the results were consistant.

Also, the main power wire running from the starter to the + Battery had 12.7V while sitting and dropped down to 12.4-12.5 with the key in the "start" position.

Is there anything else I can confirm that it is the starter? Already had the battery tested, said it was good.
 
How much confirmation do you need? You have 12v as far as you can reach its time to pull the motor. It's under an hour each direction. You really should have an engine hoist or chainfall. I'll pull a single kohler by hand, I can do a twin, but choose not to. ill take the time and set up my hoist.
 
The starter is the problem, I have had my 318 with P218G for 30 years on my 3rd starter. First starter last 5 years. Second starter lasted 25 years, but a new starter improvement kit went in when it melted the 20 amp fuse in the plastic tubular fuse holder, now a auto reset thermal fuse. The new starter is 2 years old, barely have to crank it.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Thanks guys. Where do you get your replacement starters?

Ebay gives results anywhere from $60 to $600. I only want to do the job once, but won't be spending $300+ on a starter. Are the $100 ones better than the $60 ones, anywhere else I should look?
 
Are you good at winning the LOTTERY?

You don't know how old/used up there are. Do you like pulling the engine again if it doesn't last?

You use to be able to rebuild them, I don't know now, I got a new one last time and yes it was $600.00 plus labor. Check with a local Onan dealer, or the Onan online site. Do the work yourself and save a lot.
 
I recently bought a 1987 318 with 190 hours on it! I was in the process of taking the engine tin off to repaint it when I noticed a cut, horizontal from front to rear, made in the left side firewall engine tin. I looked to fined out what it was for and then when I pulled it back there was the Bendix and the entire enclosed area for cleaning! What a great idea. It must have been a mechanic who knew what was hiding behind the tin. I might put a hinge on it and make this a new "Mod" for my redos. As long as it had a rubber edge on it, it would seal up real nice and keep the airflow normal. I'll take a picture of it and you guys can see how much is exposed with one little cut.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
I recently bought a 1987 318 with 190 hours on it! I was in the process of taking the engine tin off to repaint it when I noticed a cut, horizontal from front to rear, made in the left side firewall engine tin. I looked to fined out what it was for and then when I pulled it back there was the Bendix and the entire enclosed area for cleaning! What a great idea. It must have been a mechanic who knew what was hiding behind the tin. I might put a hinge on it and make this a new "Mod" for my redos. As long as it had a rubber edge on it, it would seal up real nice and keep the airflow normal. I'll take a picture of it and you guys can see how much is exposed with one little cut.

A picture would be great.

Do you get the driveshaft bolts off by going under the tractor, from the side, or in via where the battery tray would normally be?
 
I did mine from top, remove battery and battery tray, put a line up mark on the drive coupling and the engine to realign when you put it back together.
 
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