So a vibration that increases with load?

Does it happen in both directions?

Any noise along with it?

I wonder if the drive shaft bushings are loose or worn out..

When you changed the tranny fluid- was it dirty? Metal?

How did the plugs look? If they were lean your low power would be evident..

Another issue could be the transaxle or carrier..

Hard to tell from soon to be snow covered WNY.. Just a couple ideas.. Fire back with info..

 

Never put it under a real load in reverse, so I'm not 100% sure.
I would describe it as a groan I guess, not a typical hydro whine.
I checked the drive shaft, seemed good and tight at both ends.
Trans fluid looked very good I think, almost like it may have been done recently. No obvious metal shavings, but once it hits my catch pan it is hard to tell. Still have it, and could run it through some type of collector I guess.
Plugs looked dark, I would say more rich than lean I think, but otherwise unremarkable. I can't tell where the vibration originates. Engine issue? Transaxle issue? Something is making this tractor work, when it really shouldn't be working that hard imo, I just don't know what.

 

If it has a drive shaft I would check that first...

If it has belts then it could be a belt of your pullies...

 

with the engine at idle remove one plug wire at a time and listen for rpm drop on each cylinder!confirming both cylinders are firing is a start!try not to get a shock!

 

Yep, tried that, and confirmed both cylinders were indeed firing. Thanks for the suggestion though. I picked that up from an old thread dealing with a similar issue on a 445. They also talked about the damper. My problem seems so severe, and it mimics the problem while in cruise mode, so that doesn't seem to be it either. Give me any suggestions! With grass mowing right around the corner, the next stop will be the dealer, and they are still mad I got this 445 instead of their new X540!:hide:

 

have you checked the motor mounting bolts

 

No I haven't. That's a thought. A local JD friend also asked me if they looked deteriorated. Thanks! That is on the list. I want to explore as many options as I am capable of doing. It's not just the money, I kind of feel like I am admitting defeat in some way. As usual though, the diagnosis is the hard part. I can't fix what I don't know is broke!!!:dunno:

 

If the drive shaft is good then I agree in taking a serious look at motor mounts. You would think you would notice the engine shaking in that case though. A wobbling engine would be hard to miss. Drive it with hood off and if the engine is jumping you have your suspect.

 

Question: Would the engine being under load cause it to move more than not being under load? I don't know the answer, but you're right, if I was getting any movement at all at idle I would think I would notice it right away. With all the service work I've done since I bought it, I have had it running more with the side panels off than on.

Question II: If I have a problem with the drive shaft, would it be obvious? At least on a car, it was always obvious just giving it a good shake, and replacing the u-joints as needed.

 

Well yea it will move more under load because it's getting resistance. It may sit and idle smoothly with no resistance being applied. I still say take the hood off and drive it with a load. Hood comes off in seconds. If the mounts are bad the engine will start jumping around when it meets resistance

 

My experience is a loose motor makes most noise at start up!but it's worth checking!put a wrench on the bolts and check them ,eyeballing might not be apparent!

Morning update: Put a wrench on all four mounts, good and snug. Removed hood, and noticed really no engine movement at all to speak of. The vibration is definitely load dependent. I went up the same grade without the aerator(now it is raining of course)and the vibration is there, but much less noticeable and not nearly as violent. Also, backed up the same grades where traction would allow, and didn't really notice the vibration being there. Like I said the wet grass limits just how hard I can lug her down, but it FELT smoother in reverse. What would that indicate? Thanks for all the feedback and input guys. This has been pretty frustrating to say the least. All that excitement of buying such a strong tractor for the first time really fades when the first time you use it at all there is a problem. Oh well, it is over 16 years old, and I learned a valuable lesson, to really TEST a tractor before you buy it. I got caught up in the low hours, and what appeared to be light duty use by previous owners. Anyway...........I do appreciate the help.

 

My experience is a loose motor makes most noise at start up!but it's worth checking!put a wrench on the bolts and check them ,eyeballing might not be apparent!

 

What if the ignition is weak and you are losing spark on one cylinder when the compression forces get higher? I would try to remove one plug wire and see if it either stays the same or gets worse or even just stalls.

 

I tried this at idle and it seemed to be the same regardless of which plug I removed. It would idle down, and then return to normal as soon as I replaced the plug wire.

 

1stJD,

I do not know if this would be any help to you but there is the JD Technical Manual TM1517 for the 445 in the MTF library.

Bob P

 

Thanks Bob. I've got one downloaded, and have used it for reference on a few things, but to be honest some of that info is just above my pay grade. Lol. I think if I could diagnose the problem, it would definitely be a tool in fixing it, but I'm afraid I'm just chasing the other end of the cat right now though.:dunno:

 

Hooked up the aerator for some more testing. Problem is still present, but it seems slightly less severe, or I'm just getting more use to it. However, while in reverse, the problem seems to disappear. Backing up with the aerator puts a reasonable amount of load on the tractor, but the vibration seems to mia. Any thoughts?

 

Pull out the forward check valve on the trans and check it for worn or broken parts/o-ring. When you release the free-wheeling lever, the nub on top of the check valve comes all the way up right? Saw a thread here once where a piece actually broke off of the check valve inside the trans.

One more idea, check the torsion damper. P/N AM115862 (#8 in the diagram below). That will shake the snot out of you if it's shot.

 

Thanks!! I read an old thread about the damper too, but wasn't sure exactly how to check it, and would there be a reason that reverse didn't seem to have the same vibration? Definitely going to inspect the check valve. Stupid question, but which one is forward, and which one is reverse? Sorry for the 100 questions guys.:hide:

 

The damper is similar to a car shock. You have to remove it and check how much (or little) force it takes to bottom out the piston, If it's easy to bottom out it is shot. Standing at the rear of the tractor and facing the front, the forward check valve should be on the right.

The forward check valve is part# AM882548 and the reverse is AM882549

 

I think we(you) might be on to something. Got everything tore down, and the check valve on the right seemed to be sticking some. Messed around a little but had to batten down the hatches. We have rain and 60 mph winds coming. Temperature is supposed to drop 40 degrees or more by tonight. Anyway, at least I've got something to try. I removed the implement relief valve in the center to gain better access to the check valves, so I'm hoping I got it back in right. Seems to have shims at the top(I hope), which the tech manual says you can add to adjust pressure. Anyway, thanks a bunch for the ideas, and while I have it all apart I'll pull off that damper too. Btw I also pm'd LILGRIZZ. He had a thread awhile back with very similar issues.

 

If that forward valve is sticking at all it will cause what you are seeing. Spray the heck out of it with your favorite penetrating stuff ( I use PBBlaster) and move it up and down many times to make sure it is not sticking any longer. Usually all it takes ...
Good luck with the storm. We have a similar situation up here in NY, but add in some snow.

 

A break in weather, however short lived allowed me to work the check valve good with some PB, and get everything bolted back together, then another storm came before I could test our work. I'll keep all who are interested posted, and thanks again to everyone who has offered their help and their time.

 

Well, did that fix it?

Jon


Sent from the MTF Free App

 

Tomorrow is next test day. We both needed a day off. Lol. Hoping for the best though.

Sent from the MTF Free App

 

Thanks to Harryc I think I am making some slow progress. Definitely scratch the part about just slapping a new check valve in there though. By that part# it is a $278.23 part!! and the damper is $214.51!! That's some last resort prices there. Lol.

 

While you are checking. Look at the coupler on the end of drive shaft where it connects to the motor I had the same problem and it was cracked real bad. if it is cracked or has splits in it replace it for if it comes out it will knock the drain valve off of the radiator(I had it to happened to me) but when you do find out what is causing it please let us know

 

Will do, and thanks for the suggestion.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using MyTractorForum Free App mobile app

 

Sure sounds like the tranny is the culprit as you look through things.
**Another item to check with the weak spark is easy to do. Remove both plugs and hook up the wires and ground the plugs. Crank the engine & watch them for spark. If the spark is orange or yellow the Ignition Module is getting weak.. (I've noticed this in my many I/M's I put on my 425.. Same engine & Ignition system) PM me if you want to buy a new one.. (save $$$)

Tranny.. If you activate the hydro release and push the tractor back and forth, listen for any noises or clunking sounds. Should be nice & smooth motion. A failed bearing thus binding motion could definitely cause your trouble.. A sticking brake will also do it.. You will know as you push it if either is so.

Jack it up as said previously.. Is it an AWS model? Check the U joints.. Wheel bearings.. Spin one wheels and listen to the differential as you watch the other wheel spin in the other direction. Another thing to consider is the Differential lock.. If it is stuck or FUBAR that will cause trouble too.

Just more food for thought. (like you needed it huh?)

I agree the service manual is a bit difficult to wrap your head around but after you work on this thing it will make perfect sense to you.. (scary huh?)
Keep us updated and :goodl:

 

No, I really appreciate it, it's all good info. The diff lock seems to be working on demand, and properly. Seems to be smooth and quiet with hydro release activated. I jacked it up, and didn't notice any obvious issues. Which brings up a good point. With my limited experience with my 445, obvious may be a relative term. Not AWS model. Right now I keep going back to that forward check valve. Definitely was iffy on sticking at times, and the forward valve seemed to be worse than the reverse, which may explain why the issues were absent while in reverse. I just wish that valve wasn't so expensive, as I would love to throw a new one in there. That would either fix the problem, or eliminate it as a culprit. Right now so many more questions than answers, as is always the case when chasing down a problem. Still plan on pulling that damper off, although I think that would more than likely be magnifying what I'm feeling vs truly causing the issue. Anyway.........the quest continues. Btw by the time that tech manual makes sense to me, I may just be fertilizer for a local resting place.:dunno:

 

how did the coupler look on the motor end of the drive shaft? I know on my x595 that has always been the trouble when it is going bad

 

As far as a visual, I guess I really haven't got a good look because of the flywheel cover, but there seems to be no play at all. The driveshaft in general seems to be very tight at both ends.

 

there will be no play in it that you can feel. you need to look at it . I know on the x595 you can see it with out taking anything off

 

Oh okay, I guess I was thinking you might could feel an issue with a good shake. I'll definitely try to get a good look on that end.

 

Let me know what you find out wrong on it for form what you have said and already checked it has to the shaft doing it

 

I was wrong, I have a clear look at the shaft and mount. Everything looked great. All bolts were tight, and the rubber mount looked like new. I'm admitting defeat. Tomorrow a.m. I'm taking her to the dealer. Hopefully they can find a simple fix for my issue, and not gouge me too much for the repair. I'll let everyone know what they find, as this has been one heck of a mystery. I really hate to do it, but I don't want to totally hate this tractor because I'm spending everyday searching for this problem either.

 

Good luck with the dealer, I also hope they don't gouge you. I think most are pretty honest and helpful...it's the others that I worry about. :hide:

David

 

let me know what they find out with it.

 

Absolutely. I definitely want everyone who has tried to help me on here know exactly what the problem was. I honestly hope it's just something embarrassingly simple. I can live with that much easier than having a 400 hour 445 dead in the water. The guy at the dealer was definitely surprised to see me having problems when I told him the hours. We'll see??

 

did you ever get it to the shop?

 

Yep, dropped it off last week. Just waiting to hear something back.