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If the idle is too high it will draw air/fuel into the engine and because things are hot, the mixture will auto-ignite at the wrong time! This can wreak havoc on an engine if it's in certain times in the engine's cycle.. (I've seen blown up pistons!) Try this- Idle the thing down for ~ a minute with no load before shutting off.. (lets the exhaust valve cool off a bit.) if that works then keep doing it. If not, try lowering the idle as much as you can and retry.. :goodl:
 
Thanks, I'll give that a try tonight.

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I bought the $35 one from outdoor concepts and it worked great. After 8 months of not starting my tecumseh started on the first pull.

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This Tecumseh 8hp engine is in a Toro 824XL snow thrower, I think the engine is a HMSK80.

The problem im having is it idles funny, it revs up and down, up and down, up and down. It also does not like a closed choke; I can only close it half way. If I close it all the way it still runs but it makes the revving worse.

So I removed the carb, cleaned it inside and out, replaced all fuel lines and both intake gaskets. The fuel lines and gaskets where all dry rotted. Changed oil also plus fresh clean gas.

Now it starts up on the second pull where before it took 4-6 pulls to get it going. The revving up and down is still the same.

Second thing I noticed is if I prime too much, gas comes out the screw on the bottom of the bowl, it’s always done this. This might have something to do with it.

When re-installing the bowl is there any specific way it needs to be installed? I didn’t take note on how it was installed originally so when I put it back on I wasn’t sure if I had it right. Fired right up so I didn’t worry too much about it.

The only other problem I have with the snow blower is reverse seems to be weak, used to be very strong, if you put it in reverse setting #2 it would knock you down if you weren’t ready for it. Now it just slowly inches backwards. Any ideas?

I was given this snow blower by my father in-law, he don’t take care of anything, he is one of those people that can destroy almost any equipment whether its new or an old iron piece of equipment. If you think you have a piece of equipment that is bullet proof, let him borrow it for a season lol.
Yours is just like mine was. Finally something I kinda know instead of just "trying" to be helpful.

That little needle is a "gas dumper". Basically the older carbs have a valve that when pushed gas will draw from the tank. It's an early method of "priming" the carb. There should be 2 screws on the side, one in the middle and one up higher. Some only have 1 and those are the self governed ones. Your best bet it to fiddle with it a bit or get a different carb. If yours has 2 screws you can adjust it just like you would a Lawnmower. Mine was jumpy and spurty and wouldn't run unless on half choke. I ended up getting a different carb. I'll see what pics I have see if I have anything on the old carb.


Old beats new any day!!!!
 
Anyone know how to find the correct carb for my MTD Yard Machine Walk Behind Snowblower.

I think I played around with it enough trying to clean it............it does the surge thing like everyone elses's does.

My Model number of the MTD Blower is 315E640F000 "2004"

Its a Tecumseh Engine I believe............possible this is the engine model number but not exactly sure. 31AE640E206
 
Anyone know how to find the correct carb for my MTD Yard Machine Walk Behind Snowblower.

I think I played around with it enough trying to clean it............it does the surge thing like everyone elses's does.

My Model number of the MTD Blower is 315E640F000 "2004"

Its a Tecumseh Engine I believe............possible this is the engine model number but not exactly sure. 31AE640E206
Maybe it's just the old motors but I thought all techumseh's started with letters, like mine is hm80 which is horizontal medium size 8.0 hp


Old beats new any day!!!!
 
I think you are right, I have been doing more tinkering with it and found some great info on adjusting the carb. I think I may have got the right mixture now.

 
Since Our government has figured that owners are too stupid to adjust a carburetor and would adjust them so rich it would polute the air. Carburetor manufacturers have been mandated to make carburetors that are preset and are nonadjustable. Or if they are adjustable only certified repair shops are allowed to have special tools and can be fined if the carburetors are not adjusted "by the book" or they sell the tools to "non mechanics".
Most small engines using these preset carburetors are adjusted at the raged edge of being too lean. When they are left sit with old gasoline in them the jets and small passages get plugged from the remnants of the old gas. The first sign of this problem is if the engine starts it surges.Sometimes partially closing the choke eliminates the surging. The idle circuit of the carburetor is usually the culprit. The main jet can also contribute to the problem. Remember the idle circuit does not stop working even at high speed. Some passages can be cleaned if you are able to get to them. I usually will take the straw on carb cleaner and make sure to shoot it into the passage in the front of the carburetor and be sure some comes out the small holes by the throttle plate and some comes out thru the main jet or idle circuit feed. Because when gasoline dries it leaves a coating---think what paint does---It narrows all the places it coats reducing the amount of gasoline or air that can flow thru it. Some carb cleaners can dissolve the coating and restore it to it's proper size, sometimes a jet cleaning tool needs to be used to clean the jets. That said do NOT use a torch tip cleaner it is very easy to oversize the jets. Then if it runs it will use excessive fuel and belch black smoke---and pollute. Before I forget again sometime ultrasonic cleaners work very well but the vibrations don't travel too well thru the internal passages of the carburetor. Yet as much as I hate to patronize China there comes times when I have bought that "cheap junk" and had a perfect running engine.
 
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